Tuna Tartare on Wonton Chips
Hand-chopped ahi tuna with sesame and ginger on crispy wonton crisps — a California restaurant invention from 1984 that became one of the defining appetisers of American fine dining.
- 1 lbsushi-grade ahi tuna
- 2 tbspsoy sauce(low sodium)
- 1 tbspsesame oil(toasted)
- 1 tspfresh ginger(minced)
- 1shallot(minced)
- 1 tbsprice vinegar
- 24wonton wrappers
- vegetable oil(for frying)
- black sesame seeds(for garnish)
- microgreens(for garnish)
Make wonton chips up to 2 days ahead in airtight container. Prepare tartare up to 2 hours ahead, keep very cold.
- 1Cut wonton wrappers diagonally into triangles
- 2Fry in 350°F oil until golden and crisp, drain on paper towels
- 3Keep tuna very cold; dice into 1/4-inch pieces with sharp knife
- 4Gently mix tuna with soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger, shallot, and rice vinegar
- 5Season with pepper (soy adds salt)
- 6Keep tartare refrigerated until serving
- 7Spoon small mound of tartare onto each wonton chip
- 8Garnish with sesame seeds and microgreens
- 9Serve immediately while chips are crisp
Use impeccably fresh sushi-grade tuna. Keep fish cold throughout prep - work on a bowl of ice if needed. A sharp knife is essential for clean cuts.
Tuna tartare has a more precisely documented origin than most dishes: it was invented in 1984 by chef Shigefumi Tachibe at Chaya Brasserie in Los Angeles. Tachibe, who had trained in both Japanese and French culinary traditions, created it as an improvised substitute when a group of diners asked if the restaurant's beef tartare could be replaced with something lighter — this was, as Chowhound notes in its documented account, "at the dawn of the low-fat craze." Looking around his kitchen, Tachibe noticed that the dark red ahi tuna he had on hand resembled beef closely enough to make the swap. The customers loved it so much they insisted he add it to the permanent menu. The knife Tachibe used to make that first tartare is today in the collection of the Smithsonian Institution. Wolfgang Puck made tuna tartare one of the signature dishes at Spago, and by the late 1990s it had spread to upscale restaurant menus across the United States. The dish's name connects it to the older French tradition: steak tartare had been a European restaurant staple for decades, with Auguste Escoffier publishing an early recipe in 1921 and the name "tartare" appearing in his 1903 Le Guide Culinaire. The tartare name itself carries a romanticised link to the Mongol warriors known as Tartars, who reportedly ate raw horsemeat on campaign, though food historians note the evidence for this origin story is thin. What is indisputable is that tuna tartare's fusion of French technique, Japanese raw-fish culture, and California sensibility produced one of the most imitated appetisers of the late 20th century — and the wonton crisp base is a direct product of that same California Pacific Rim spirit.
